Your Camera is Not Big Enough: Mt. Taranaki: Crazy.

Mt. Taranaki: Crazy.

“No way are we going to go up there tomorrow”. My first reaction was natural. Mt Taranaki is truly a site to behold. From the vantage point of the valley below which is just above sea level, the steep slopes of the 8200 foot stratovolcano dominate the sky. Located on the west coast of the North Island of New Zealand, the volcano is the geologic feature which formed the immediately surrounding landmass, and towers over the Tasman Sea nearly two vertical miles below. The volcano seemed far beyond anything I felt comfortable with the idea of approaching.

We had freed up an extra day on the North Island of New Zealand due to bad weather circumstances on Tongaririo (see http://yourcameraisnotbigenough.blogspot.com/2017/02/impending-doom-tongariro-northern.html). After reviewing the weather forecast, which was actually quite good for the imposing Mt. Taranaki, we decided to make the extra drive out to see and hopefully climb Mt. Taranaki with our extra day.

Mt Taranaki, viewed from first section of summit climb hike

Mt. Taranaki is a relatively quiescent but still active volcano, with eruptions occurring approximately every 90 years. It is approachable to the non-mountaineer just a few months each summer on good weather days. I had originally hoped to climb the peak prior to travelling to New Zealand, but, after researching the logistics, had pitched the idea. As a high peak on the west coast of the North Island of New Zealand, Mt. Taranaki gets slammed with wind and precipitation directly off the Tasman Sea. Often, it is shrouded in clouds. Even when clear, it is subject to abrupt maritime weather, which can turn a sunny day into a blizzard any day of the year in a matter of minutes. The weather, rather than the steep grade or volcanic activity, has claimed the lives of over 80 people to date, making it second only to Mt Cook for mountain fatalities in New Zealand.

We were blessed enough to have a chance to give it a shot. As we made our ascent, we talked with a local man who was familiar with and had climbed the volcano many times. He informed us that the mountain had not been approachable or visible for the prior two weeks, provided us with good information on trail conditions and what to expect, and reassured us that hundreds of people had already made it to the summit this summer.

The Mt. Taranaki Summit Climb gains 5,300 feet (1 vertical mile) in 3 ¾ miles in crescendo fashion, with 3000 feet being gained the last mile and a half, making it by far the steepest sustained climb I have experienced. To put it in perspective, Picacho peak climbs about 1400 feet in about two miles (700 ft/mile), whereas the Finger Rock Trail climbs 4300 in 5 (about 860 ft/mi). By way of comparison, the Taranaki Summit Climb climbs at an average grade of 1400 ft/mi, making the average grade almost double that found in the aforementioned very challenging hikes, and sustaining the grade for one vertical mile. To put it another way, the hike climbs nearly as much elevation as the hike from Catalina State Park to Mt Lemmon summit, only it does so in less than 25% of the distance.

The climb starts on a steeply graded four wheel drive road akin to Tumamoc hill (if Tumamoc was much taller), up to a lodge. This is the warm up.

Then, a steep rocky climb (akin to the steeper sections of Picacho or Finger Rock), to ease you in (kindof like the boiled frog analogy). This is followed up by several hundred stairs.

The climb up scree section marked with poles, note the hikers above and beyond

Then, it gets pretty sketchy. First, the route climbs up a long run of steep loose volcanic scree. I stopped for a breather. As soon as the effects of forward momentum dissipated, the sensation of gravity really hit me, and I felt as if I could easily be slip or be pulled over backwards, without a good point of leverage to oppose gravity. Loose rocks rolled above, below, and underfoot some bouncing endlessly down until finally slipping inaudibly over the steep cliff far below. At this absurd grade and at a height of 6'3" the numbers don't add up. Trigonometry I think. I reached forward and touched the ground in front of me without bending over. Not a much safer feeling. The impersonal and blind power of gravity struck me, and remained an ever present companion until up to the top and then back down off the scree. Time to move, no more stopping...

Finally, the last mile of trail required that we put away our poles, due to a yet steepening grade over larger volcanic lava and boulders, demanding the almost constant use our arms and hands climb up the rocky final 2000 vertical feet to the summit, traveling at a horizontal to vertical ratio of about 2:1. An occasional pole marked the route.

Climbing Taranaki. Note the scree, trail, hikers, rooftop of backcountry lodge, more below than behind

Lunch Break, on the Taranaki Summit Climb, overlooking the Tasman Sea

At the top, the deep snow drift still filled the caldron, and icy gale wind chilled to the bone. We were glad we packed crampons and three layers despite being quite hot just minutes before on the climb. The views overlooking the Tasman sea and the west coast of the north island of New Zealand were remarkable.

In reverse, one could really appreciate the grade, looking directly down over the top half of the trail and rooftop of the lodge halfway down the trail below.

Mt Taranaki Caldron

Massive vestiges of prior eruptions form rock formations which rise at the rim of the volcanic Mt. Taranaki, photo taken from atop deep snow pack within the caldron